This is actually a crosspost from my Metropolitician blog, but someone suggested I crosspost it here.
Blogs around the world are overflowing with “top ten” and “most lame” and all sorts of other lists, especially around the end and beginning of years. I’m not going to continue them, but merely begin a master list of things I wish I had known or would have helped me when I first came to Korea. Since things in life don’t usually come in tens or factors thereof, I’m going to leave the number of items on the list open. If you’d like to add to the list, please do so in the comments, in a single paragraph in the same format as the items in the main list.
As always, vulgar or otherwise inappropriate comments will be deleted. Just keep it real and reasonable, please. If I could fly back into the past and whisper into the ear of myself before coming here, I would say, in no particular order:
“Always check the taxi when you get out.”
I don’t know how many times I’ve picked up a cellphone that had fallen out of my pocket, an extra bag that I’d forgotten I’d brought that day, or even my whole frickin’ camera bag after sleeping during a long ride after perhaps a couple beers too many. MAKE IT A HABIT. Step out of the car, hold the door open quite deliberately, and check. The taxi driver will know what you’re doing, and if it’s dark, will flip the light on for you. THIS WILL SAVE YOU SO MUCH HASSLE, you won’t even believe it. You know that friend who lost his camera, or her cellphone, or a purse or whatever? It’s usually at this stage. I have NEVER lost a personal item in Korea. Because most are lost in taxis, and I always follow this rule. Seriously. Do it.
“Bring a fax machine.”
I did this, against my will, because my father thought it best to bring a fax machine. Trust me, even with being able to do it through the computer or whatever – totally worth its weight in gold and trips to the Kinko’s. Applications, verifications, official requests of all kinds – that little old phone/fax/answering machine isn’t much more trouble than bringing a normal phone and has already paid for itself, both in terms of money and hassles not had.
“Bring your sources of pleasure.”
Whatever those are – your music on an 80-gig iPod, home theater system, French horn, or stamp collection – bring them with you, since it only usually involves packing them in a special box. Even if you’re just here for a year, it’s just an extra packing job and a few bucks to send. But if it helps keep you grounded, centered, and happy here, it’s well worth it. And often, if you do end up staying longer, you’re going to just re-purchase some of them anyway, or wait a long time before you make a trip back and end up boxing up and bringing back what you should have just bitten the bullet about and packed in the first place. So it’s going to be a bitch to move? Hey, moving’s always a bitch. And?
“Buy necessities. Don’t live like a nomad.”
Buy a set of eating utensils. Get a set of cups and plates. Spend a bit on the multi-region DVD player (you can take it back with you and the multi-region ones are harder to get in the US, anyway). It’s not that different financially, but very different psychologically. But if you’re semi-settled like a normal person, you feel more normal and can do more normal things, such as invite people over to eat at your place, you can buy normal Korean DVD’s (they’re the same as the American ones except for the additional Korean subtitle track – bonus!), and many other things. And the Korean-style necessities (e.g. floor cushions, extensive selections of slippers, cool scrubby things for the shower, cheap copper cooking pots) are often cool enough to take back and add value to your life here. Ain’t that why you came to a foreign country, and Korea specifically?
“Try not to think of ‘Korea.’”
It’s easy to come to a new place and think of everything good or bad in terms of that new place. Try to stop yourself every time you say the words “Korean all…” or “I hate it when Koreans…” Of course, it’s tempting to do and it’s a struggle to not get pulled into that, but the longer one is here, the more one can see that yes, like any place, there are cultural and social patterns, but that asshole taxi driver can be just that – the asshole taxi driver. He doesn’t have to be “Koreans.” It’s hard to do at first, when everything new, good and bad, is “Korea.” It’s hard to do sometimes, especially when certain things are very Korean in how they pan out (like the drunk ajussis who seem to like to mess with me on the #1 line); but I also remember the coworker who took me to dinner, the students who went out of their way to lead me through the Coex Mall the first time I went, etc. The bad bubbles to the top first, and Korea, like any other country, has its own set of problems, but try not to go down the path to “the Dark Side,” since “forever will it dominate your destiny.” Living in Korea as a foreigner is a struggle, and just when you forget that is when you get whacked on the head by a drunk guy. Be prepared for it.
“Don’t believe the hype.”
Koreans are “conservative” or “don’t have sex before marriage” or “are all studious” or all do X, Y, or whatever else Koreans love to tell foreigners Koreans do or are. It’s usually bullshit and blowing overly-positive smoke up your ass, and an easy way to end up going over to the Dark Side after suffering from an acute case of smashed assumptions.
“Don’t get all über-American (or wherever).”
Being overseas usually means your kneejerk patriotism gets a boost, especially in relation to things you may not like over here. So, yes, sexism and racism and social inequalities suck here, but don’t forget there are glass ceilings and screwed up shit back home, wherever that is. And for us “liberal” Americans (as “conservative” as Koreans, are, right?), let’s not forget that being gay hasn’t been OK or cool for very long, and it’s generally only Americans who started taking Genesis literally and started believing the Earth is flat again. All isn’t perfect back home, so stop making direct comparisons. They’ll get you nowhere useful fast.
“The stronger, deeper, and more numerous your affective ties, the better.”
In any society, one has a diverse number of affective ties: family, friends, lovers. Depending on who you are and how you come here, much of your support group will be gone. The quicker you make real Korean friends, a significant other, and other connections with people you actually care about, the better. So yes, the “Korean girlfriend” is a good thing, as would be a close friend, or anyone who cares about you more than the person who passes you in the street. And you accelerate and accentuate other aspects of your life here as well. Affective ties help you acquire Korean language skills, keep you from going to the “Dark Side,” help you feel like a normal person. Because normal people need those things.
“Diversify your contacts.”
If everyone you know is like you, that ain’t too healthy, no matter where you are. Imagine if all your friends were your coworkers or friends of coworkers; or everyone you knew was a lawyer and you were a lawyer; or all the people you knew were white and you’re white. Now, you may be the type of person who only likes people like yourself, then what can be said? But if you aren’t, you might think about the fact that part of the reason things are so miserable when they get the most miserable is because you only know one thin slice of people. So if all your friends are English teachers, think about how narrow a part of this complex society that is; if all your Korean friends speak English well (in order to speak to you), then you have a self-selecting and narrow exposure to all the types of Korean folks out there. This is not bad per se, but you should just think about where you are and what more there might be out there. Do something different: volunteer, vary your routes home, take a random bus and get lost in the city, try something new. Related to that:
“Learn Korean. Then learn more.”
The more you learn, the more you can converse with people, the richer your experience here will be, the more independent you will be, the more you can enjoy life here. All that obvious shit. Seriously. And if and when you plateau, push yourself with an activity that will force you to learn more. I taught a photo class in Korean, and now I blog in Korean a bit as well. Whatever floats your boat, get in where you fit in.
“Never trust a job until you see money in hand.”
One rule of thumb in Korea is that no matter how solid the job, guaranteed the gig, never ever ever count on that money until the job’s done and the deal in hand. I’ve agreed to do jobs with handshakes made, dates set, and even having made multiple confirmations – only to have them fizzle into oblivion with nary any warning. I’ve even shown up for the first day of whatever only to find I was the only one not told something was cancelled. In Korea, it ain’t real until the money’s in your hand. And that being said, I’d push to be paid up front (usually this makes any shaky arrangements appear as what they are) or by the week as you do it if you can help it. Doubt this rule at your own risk. You’ll know what I’m talking about eventually.
“If you and a member of the opposite sex are meeting alone, serially and at least several times, you are dating.”
You may think you’re “just friends,” or s/he’s just very kind and likes to hang out with you, but if you aren’t careful, you’ll be out of the friend zone before you know it. Gender norms and the iron law of heteronormativity are in major effect here, and the exceptions to this rule so infrequent that it’s worth just making this a rule. This rule is in effect unless s/he’s spent a lot of time in foreign countries and doesn’t conform so closely to the gender rules here, or s/he’s using you for English practice. Which brings me to the rule below.
“Dating Korean girls who only want to speak English is never worth it.”
Yeah, yeah – somewhere in one’s past, you’ve rationalized away the fact that his hot young lady considers you a walking dictionary, but it could be worse, right? Umm, not really. Hot or not, it’s never worth it. It’s like trying to construct a perpetual motion machine – a losing endeavor and never worth the effort.
“Don’t mess with ajumma.”
These are the women generally aged 40+ who are sturdy yet nimble, stocky yet quick. You probably won’t have any reason to get into a confrontation with an ajumma, but if you do, you’ll lose. You can’t shout down an ajumma. It’s a law of the universe and you’ll lose in the court of public opinion. Because why would you even try, right? You must be crazy, no matter how right you may be.
“Don’t fight with Russian women.”
I’ve never violated this rule, and never will. It may seem a sweeping generalization, but in the Korean context, it’s just good to follow. I’m not saying Russian women in Korea are bad people, just that they seem to be good fighters. To the end. I’ve seen this rule violated and it didn’t end well for the transgressors. I’ll just leave it at that. Be PC if you want. But I respect the Russian ladies and let them have the benefit of the doubt.
29/04/2009 at 1:03 am Permalink
A wonderful post. May I add my own idea:
Find something you enjoy about Korea. Seriously, if you’re going to call it home for a year (or more), you may as well find one or more things you like about the place you call home. For me, it’s the jimjilbang, the galbi, and the ability to take the subway on less than it might cost in gas and a car. For what would amount to perhaps $20 USD, I will have paid for all three in one well-spent day..
As for the ajumma rule, I respect it – but break it from time to time. A number of ajumma and ajosshi get my version of the cold shoulder though one way or another, mainly through casual indifference. Some lady is passing out fliers and blocking my way through the subway station? I see no problem in working my way through. Some ajosshi trying to sell something on the subway while I’m on the phone? I see no problem in talking louder than he. All bets are off if said ajumma is working a knife, as they do quite well at any fish market.
As for the fax machine bit, may I humbly suggest that there are free services online that can send a document (A Word doc, for example) to any fax number in America for free, with only the possibility of a small advertisement indicating it’s sender cheapness? My last request for a transcript was sent this way =)
29/04/2009 at 9:51 am Permalink
I don’t live anywhere near Seoul so the only Russians I see are the factory workers who casually drink beer and soju for breakfast at 7:00 in the morning. (I wouldn’t want to mess with them either.) I’m really curious as to what you (the metropolitician) have seen that would lead you to that conclusion.
29/04/2009 at 10:29 am Permalink
As to the “dating” rule, I would have to agree that being alone with someone in that manner would imply dating, but you should point out to your readers the difference between “dating” and “meeting” in Korean language context.
“meeting” – When a girl (or guy??) is going out with you to try to judge if you would be an ideal candidate to be given the title “boyfriend” or “girlfriend” (we call this “dating” in the west).
“dating” – After “meeting” with someone several times and have decided that you really like him/her and would like he/she to be even closer (i.e. introduce them to your parents), then you are “dating”
So, often in Korea you will have an older guy/gal “meeting” several different people at the same time to try and decide which one would be the best mate. A choice is made, and only then does the term “dating” come into play
At least this is what I have learned over my five years here in Daegu… Who knows… the terminology could be very different in Seoul.
29/04/2009 at 10:52 am Permalink
From what I’ve seen, “데이트하다” seems to be activity-oriented. I’ve seen people who are not going out, or even mostly platonic friends, playfully say they are on a “데이트.” Or I can ask a nominally platonic female friend to go on a “데이트” with me because I’m bored and want to see a movie. I’ve also been on a “데이트” with people with boyfriends, but we have no ongoing romantic relationship. We’re just going to do that activity that man/woman couples do, regardless of actual dating status. Of course, it has a romantic connotation, but the real-to-playful use is pretty broad, in my experience.
As for “만나다”, I’d say that Koreans use it to indicate someone they are going steady with, a bf or gf. I’ve been let known that a woman isn’t available by the words “저 만나는 사람이 있어요” or the completely awkward literal translation into English “I’m meeting someone.” In the Korean version, it means “I meet someone regularly.” One way of breaking up is to say “그만 만나요” or “Let’s stop meeting.” I would say that if you intreoduced someone to your parents, the proper Korean would be “저 만나는 사람이 있는데요…” and not “데이트하는 사람” — I’ve never heard the latter to refer to an ongoing relationship, but rather to specific instances of going on dates.
Which is why I’d say that, in the Korean mind, if you are “meeting” on a regular basis, exclusively as a man and woman, and it feels like a date, you may find yourself with a girlfriend/boyfriend and you didn’t even know it. And I would think this is far truer in the countryside than the big city, Seoul.
Again, this doesn’t apply to every situation. Maybe you’re dating in a light way and it’ll never go anywhere — what I call the “oppa brigade” — the girl who denies you are anything more than friends even though she is all cutesy and girly and expects the man to pay for everything, as if you were on a traditional date. But you meet 10-20 times, and the relationship doesn’t go anywhere. And she’s always getting calls in the middle of dinner from guys and giggling coyly. And she NEVER has a boyfriend. Dude, get off that train ASAP. You’re just a free movies and dates sucka, before we even get to whether you’re just a walking dictionary with a wallet to her. You get all kinds, for sure.
But there is a strong conservative cultural STREAK that is still alive in Korea, and if you exclusively meet a woman serially, you may on your way to entering a deeper relationship than you realize. My two cents, anyway.
29/04/2009 at 11:21 am Permalink
Strange… Perhaps there was something lost in the translation to English, but I have had several women tell me (in English) that they weren’t “dating anyone”, but then in the next sentence mention how they were going to “meet a guy” later that night… When I asked if this was a new relationship, they would say, “No, I’ve met him several times.”, etc., etc. Based on these conversations, I made the assumption that the term “date” had stronger implications.
I should have gotten them to tell me in Korean, so I would have a better understanding of the Korean language side.. Argh! Also, Daegu is much more conservative than Seoul, and we all know how much different 사토리 pervade the country.
It’s possible the term “date” has a slightly different meaning here… I’ll have to ask my girlfriend tonight. heh
29/04/2009 at 3:26 pm Permalink
Sorry, man. Those last two didn’t help much. You have a whole post about not blaming “Korea” as a whole when things go south, then you tell us to let entire ethnicities walk all over you, as if they’re all female versions of Fedor Emelianenko.
29/04/2009 at 6:48 pm Permalink
Sorry — didn’t say the whole thing made internal sense, or had some overall logic — so if you want to argue with an ajumma who elbows you in the rib, or Russian girls trying to start a fight with you, go ahead. From my 9 years of life in Korea, those two things are fights you can’t win. Up to you to judge their usefulness. But if you ever get in a situation with the latter two, I’d like to hear your feedback then. I’m not even being facetious. You could also say something about “Ladies, don’t go back home with a Nigerian guy you meet in a club” as good advice, but I consider it so blatantly obvious as to not require being on the list. If you, however, think that’s racist or a generalization, up to you. But from what we know of the infamous “twon,” I’d say steer clear from those guys. Do I know anything about Nigerians in Nigeria? Or Nigerian culture in general? Nope. But I know that they seem pretty weird in Itaewon/Korea. And Russian ladies in Korea, for some reason, don’t seem to play games when it comes to throwing down.
Up to you to process all that info. But I’d still stick to my list. Keeps me out of trouble.
30/04/2009 at 4:57 pm Permalink
A *fax machine*? I’ve never used one here, or even seen one!
01/05/2009 at 5:04 pm Permalink
Most of that list is pretty much true if you live anywhere and true if you stay home. Just substitute the word Korea for country x. The exceptions being the rather judgemental advice about Russian women and ajummas. Some of the nicest people I have ever met in my life are Russian women and ajummas.
I wonder where somebody would be when they fight with Russian women? Certainly not walking down the street and minding their own business. I have never in my life seen such a thing. I think advice I would give somebody before they get to Korea is to plan on spending some time talking to ajummas finding out more about them.
02/05/2009 at 4:15 am Permalink
At Spy Bar in Itaewon for one.
02/05/2009 at 4:01 pm Permalink
“A *fax machine*? I’ve never used one here, or even seen one!”
I’ve got one. Haven’t had the need to use it to receive anything for maybe 5-6 years, but I’ve used it to send stuff to Japan plenty of times (lots of companies will put their FAX number on their websites, but try to find an email address). Handy.